Eastbridge to Minsmere Nature Reserve, Suffolk

Hi again! Over the bank holiday I went back to my home county of Suffolk to get some fresh air and enjoy the sun. While I was back, my parents took me on one of their favourite walks on the Suffolk coast (and now it’s one of my favourites too, not least because it starts with a great pub, the Eel’s Foot, in the village of Eastbridge 🙂 ). Coming out of the Eel’s Foot, you walk left, up the road out of the village, until you see a track on the left with a “public footpath” sign. Keep following this track for some perfect examples of Suffolk’s vast, wide-open scenery.

   

Eventually the track leads out to the sea, but before this you get to appreciate the feeling of immense space around here- Suffolk is very flat but doesn’t feel bleak to me, because everything’s so lush and green!

  

Further up the track there’s also the opportunity to take a little detour to see the ruins of St Mary’s Chapel, which also acted at one time as a disguise for the WWII pill box concealed inside. In the same field as the Chapel’s ruins, there are also Highland cattle, and, at the time we visited, Konik ponies! This ancient Polish breed has been released into the area around Minsmere as their grazing habits help maintain the wetland environment. They have a pretty large area to roam around, so they can be pretty difficult to spot.

  

In the distance behind the ruins, you can see the sand dunes that mark the beginning of the beach. A little further down the coast is the village of Dunwich, formerly a large port in the 1500s- now just a small collection of houses, a pub and part of a graveyard which is in the process of falling over the edge of the gradually eroding cliffs. Bones from the graveyard, as well as furniture from houses that have toppled over the edge over the years, have been found washed up on the beach. Erosion happens at an alarmingly fast rate along the coastline here- the area around Dunwich is now falling into the sea at a rate of 1m per year.

  

Once you’ve reached the beach, you can go back on yourself and go through the gate next to the one the track led up to- this takes you into the Minsmere Nature Reserve, home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna, and one of the best wetland nature reserves in the country. There are bird hides and easily accessible footpaths all around the reserve’s 2500 acres. You can follow these footpaths through the reserve to make this walk a circular. Owned and maintained by the RSPB, it’s great for birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts as well as just keen walkers. I’ll be back to talk more about Minsmere, and other great days out in Suffolk, in more detail at some point over the summer!

Rhi xx

 


South Norwood Country Park

Hi again!

In the beautiful weather yesterday, I took the train down to South Norwood to visit the Country Park there, and now I have another new contender for my favourite place… made up of wetlands, meadows and a large lake full of birds such as coots and canada geese (at this time of year anyway), it’s quite different from a lot of the heavily wooded green spaces I’ve visited previously in the series. The park feels very open, and very distant from the city, despite only being a couple of miles out.

   

There’s so many different types of flora and fauna here- it’s also uncommon for a London green space in that the damp conditions created by the lake create a perfect breeding ground for different species of birds. We spent ages birdwatching (and trying to make friends with coot chicks from a distance)!

  

There are lots of wide, even paths throughout the park which make it perfect for cycling, as well as smaller narrower routes great for rambling and meadows for picnics and just generally chilling out. We stopped for a picnic and saw loads of beautiful red and black Cinnabar moths- just one of the 19 species of butterfly and moth that have been recorded in the park (unfortunately I wasn’t quick enough to get a photo, though).

Around the lake there are a couple of viewing platforms where you can watch the birds and appreciate one of the largest bodies of water in South London.

   

The park is pretty much surrounded by train stations; the closest being Elmers End, from which you can get to Charing Cross or Cannon Street. A fifteen minute walk away is also Norwood Junction, which is an Overground station, so easy access back up to North East London if you need it!

The variety of habitats and flora makes this a gorgeous park for a day trip that doesn’t take much preparation- a gorgeous nature reserve right on London’s doorstep.

   

Rhi xx


Beckenham Place Park

Hi again! Yesterday I took a trip to the gorgeous Beckenham Place Park in South Lewisham; the grounds of Beckenham Place mansion, which nowadays is open to the public as an arts facility, as well as housing a cafe, and even a record shop if you fancy a browse! It’s the largest green space in Lewisham, and also makes up a part of the Green Chain Walk which continues throughout the whole of South London.

The park is a lush mixture of specifically planted trees and shrubs, left over from its days as private land, and wilder vegetation as well as ancient woodland. The rolling hills of the park create a lovely vista, as well as a feeling of really having escaped the city for the day.

There are footpaths you can follow through the park, but it’s easy to ramble off the beaten track as well; there are few hard-to-access areas, and most of the land is very open rather than being entirely dense woodland. This is definitely one of my favourite places for a day of chilling in the sun, having a picnic or just a relaxing stroll (the amazing weather definitely helped on this occasion as well)!

As well as the wilder and more open areas, there are also more structured parts of the land which form a garden area, with benches nearby perfect for picnicking, and even tennis courts.

Despite the beautiful weather, the park was pretty quiet when I visited; it seems to be a pretty well-kept secret even from most locals! As much as I love Greenwich Park, it can get a little crowded, especially in the summer! I think this might be my new favourite for a sunny ramble.

Rhi xx

 


Joydens Wood, Bexley

Hi again!

 

Last week on the one day that really did feel like the beginning of spring (13 whole degrees!!), I went to Bexley to explore Joydens Wood, a piece of ancient woodland which has a long history stretching back to Roman times. Cared for by the Woodland Trust, there are multiple trails you can follow through the area. This is a lovely ramble; a couple of times I stopped just to listen to the sound of- well, pretty much nothing, other than the birds! The roar of London is only there in a very distant sense.

There are a few entrances to the Wood; the one I used took me down Stable Lane, just outside the village of Bexley. After you pass the stables, there is a gate on the left leading up into the woodland.

There are still traces of ancient human activity in the forest; including Faesten Dic, a boundary made up of a ditch and a raised bank, which runs through the woodland for about a kilometre. You can follow this as one of the trails, which are all really well sign-posted.

You could probably spend most of a day exploring the woodland- not only are there numerous trails to follow, there are also remnants of ancient settlements, such as The King’s Hollow, part of an old dwelling; also a well which would have been the area’s original drinking water source.

It’s very evident from the size of a lot of the trees just how old this woodland is; my favourite was the “Old Oak” towards the Summerhouse Drive entrance to the woods.

Another thing I noticed was how much wildlife there was about; the birdsong was so loud there, and there were squirrels absolutely everywhere!

Joydens Wood also forms part of a longer walk around the Bexley area which is fully outlined in the “London’s Parks & Countryside Pathfinder Guide“. This walk also involves a lovely stretch of the River Cray, which I’ll have to test out very soon!

Rhi xx

P.S. One thing I did find was that most of the trail I took was seriously muddy, so best to wear walking boots or an old pair of trainers you can stick in the wash afterwards!

 


Hawkwood Estate, Chislehurst

Hey!

It’s been a long time, but I’ve finally gotten around to writing this post- a while ago, I went to visit the Hawkwood Estate in Chislehurst, having scanned Google Maps as per usual for big green spaces in Southeast London I somehow haven’t gotten round to exploring yet!

    

Chislehurst itself doesn’t feel like London- the moment you step off the train you seem to be breathing Kent’s air instead. Climb the hill to the left out of the station, and head across the cricket ground towards the village- it’s even got a pub called the Rambler’s Rest.

The part I was specifically heading for was up the road a way from the train station, past the also-lovely Chislehurst Common, which I’m fully intending on giving its own post at some point soon.

My favourite part of this walk is actually the beginning, as the buildings gradually peter out along Hawkwood Lane; once you’re past the two schools along this road, you reach what appears to be a cul-de-sac; but leading off to the left is a dirt track called Botany Bay Lane. Take this track and suddenly- BAM!- you’re completely and totally in the countryside.

        

The tree-lined track keeps pretty much straight on; there are a few other footpaths leading off it, which, again, I need to explore soon. There are some amazing views (and friendly sheep) along the track, and it’s generally pretty quiet save for a few dog-walkers (one of them even said hi, which I feel is pretty conclusive evidence that this wasn’t London!). Essentially you could ramble around the whole area for hours feeling like you’ve totally escaped from the city.

       

Hawkwood Lane then runs alongside the train tracks for a little while; after this point you can either cross the bridge into more woodland, or curl back around onto a boardwalk and find yourself in the Petts Wood conservation area; more recently I visited this in the snow with a Klean Kanteen full of coffee!

                    

Side note: there’s a bunch of pubs in the picture-postcard centre of the village; so if you happen to find yourself here in the cold weather that’s supposed to be making a comeback this weekend, there’s plenty of places to warm up!

Rhi xx

 


The Stour Valley Walk from Wye to Chilham

The Stour Valley Walk follows the River Stour through the stunning countryside of East Kent, from its source at Lenham to its estuary at Pegwell Bay. One of the most beautiful sections of this walk is between the villages of Wye and Chilham, passing through the rolling hills and ancient woodlands of the Kent Downs – an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It’s fast and easy to get to from London, and with pubs at each end, it makes a fantastic day out – and the perfect escape from the city.

Stour Valley Walk
Me on the walk with my Poler Stuff The Rucksack (I took the pockets off to make the ideal day pack)

Travel time from London:
1 hour

Getting there and back: High speed Southeastern train from St. Pancras or Stratford International, changing at Ashford to Wye (you can also get slower trains to Ashford from Victoria and Charing Cross).
Return from Chilham changing at Ashford for London.

Walk distance:
7 miles

Difficulty:
Easy – with some gentle ascents/descents.

Pitstops:
The Tickled Trout at Wye, The White Horse and The Wool Pack at Chilham, Shelly’s of Chilham tearooms.

The Tickled Trout
The Tickled Trout at Wye

Directions:
From the station at Wye cross over the bridge towards the village. The Tickled Trout is immediately on your left, we stopped here for a pre-walk pint in their idyllic beer garden on the banks of the River Stour. They have an excellent selection of local ales and ciders, and home cooked food.

stour-valley-1
A pre-walk pint at The Tickled Trout

After The Tickled Trout carry on up Bridge Street through the village, then turn left onto Church Street. From the church follow the route signs for the North Downs Way and Stour Valley Walk, you’ll pass through some abandoned college buildings. Cross the road and go up the lane opposite, where you’ll come out into open farmland. Here the Stour Valley Walk and the North Downs Way separate, from this point you should follow the heron way-markers for the Stour Valley Walk. Follow the path to the left cutting diagonally across the field towards woodland.

Stour Valley Walk
Ian in the woodland

Once through the woodland the path dips into the valley and you’ll have stunning views of the surrounding countryside.

Stour Valley Walk
Ian taking a sip of whisky from his hip flask, whilst enjoying the views

The path continues through coppiced woodland to open meadowland and the village of Crundale, it then follows an unmade road branching off to the left across cornfields.

Stour Valley Walk
Me in the open meadowland

Stour Valley Walk
Ian crossing the cornfields with his trusty Fjällräven Rucksack No. 21 

Follow the way-markers through dense woodland, where the path is lined with yew trees. The path follows several sections of fields and woodland, and as you approach Chilham, you will see views of the castle. The path then branches to your left over a stile, this link path then takes you back down to the river to the picturesque Chilham Mill.

Stour Valley Walk
Made some friends in the fields between Crundale and Chilham

Stour Valley Walk
The path through woodland just before you branch off to the mill

It’s worth making a detour at this point to see Chilham Village Square before getting the train back from Chilham. Follow the lane from the mill to the A28 Ashford Road, take care crossing. Follow Bagham Lane opposite, bearing to the left and up the hill. You’ll pass The Wool Pack at the bottom of the hill. In the main square you’ll find timber-framed houses, St. Mary’s Church Chilham and the imposing gateway to Chilham Castle, as well as 14th century pub The White Horse and Shelly’s of Chilham tearooms.

For Chilham Railway Station from Mill Lane, turn right on the main road (A28 Ashford Road), and it’s in about 150 metres on your right.

Chilham Village Square
Timber-framed house and St. Mary’s Church

The White Horse Chilham
The White Horse in Chilham

 stour valley walk


Hiking Sgurr na Stri in Skye

Our last hike in Skye was Sgurr na Stri. Dwarfed by the surrounding Cuillin, Sgurr na Stri is only 494 metres high – a Marilyn rather than a Munro. Despite this, it is widely considered to be one of Britain’s finest viewpoints, and deservedly so.

You can hike in from Sligachan or Elgol, or get a boat from Elgol. We opted for the latter because we had to catch the sleeper train from Fort William that evening. We headed out on the early morning rib with Bella Jane Boat Trips.

Cuillin Ridge TraverseOur companions on the rib who jumped off the boat onto slippery rocks at Eilean Ramhair, and were heading up to do the notoriously difficult Cuillin Ridge Traverse.

stepping stones skye
Crossing the stepping stones by Loch Coruisk

Time was tight, so we followed the directions of our boat captain for the fastest route: “Head straight up from the loch, hook a right at the lochan.” We crossed the stepping-stones from Loch Coruisk and straight up to the peak, which is a bit of a scramble at times, and the path disappears pretty quickly once you leave the loch shore.

Sgurr na Stri
Hooking a right at the lochan

This route cuts the corner, but there is a longer, clearer path if you continue up from the lochan and join the path from Sligachan. This is more straightforward, except the final part to the summit which is rocky and requires careful route-finding whichever way you approach it. If you get the boat, whatever route you take, you’ll have to cross the stepping stones and you’re going to get wet feet if the water’s high.

sgurr na stri view
View from Sgurr na Stri, including the Cuillin Ridge, Loch Coruisk and the sea crossing

dee sgurr na sgtriMe, very excited to be at the peak!

seals from the rig
Seals and shags from the rib on the way back to Elgol

Kit List

Greenland_Trousers_81200-630_grandeFjällräven Greenland Trousers – These trousers were perfect for the boggy, wet conditions because they have a water repellent wax coating and are quick drying.  The durable G1000 fabric with double knee reinforcements made them hard wearing enough for scrambling over the rocks.  The pockets have room for a map, compass, knife and everything else we needed on the trail. There’s even a pocket for an axe!

 

WBS15_83806_NVYBPatagonia Torrentshell Jacket – This shell is super waterproof for the changeable Skye weather, but still breathable and has pit-zips for extra ventilation. It cuts out the wind, which we appreciated at the exposed peak. It packs down into its own pocket so it fitted easily into our packs when we didn’t need it. The fabric is ripstop, so again, it was good for scrambling over rocks.

 

BerglerLady-Chestnut-1Hanwag Bergler Hiking Boots – This Alpine mountain boot was great on the rocky terrain on Skye, which is the closest we have to Alpine in the UK, and often used for Alpine training. The flexible Vibram sole makes them comfortable to walk in and the leather lining and tongue prevented rubbing. Our feet stayed dry, even going through the high water on the stepping stones (well mine did, Ian’s would’ve done if he didn’t always have to go for a paddle!)

 

Ordnance Survey Explorer 411 Skye – Cuillin Hills Map

 Sgurr na Stri is a remote mountain, it’s important to have a map and compass and know how to use them.

 

 

 

Silva – Expedition 4 Compass

 

 

See also:

Getting to, and around Skye

Campsites and Pubs on Skye