The Stour Valley Walk from Wye to Chilham

The Stour Valley Walk follows the River Stour through the stunning countryside of East Kent, from its source at Lenham to its estuary at Pegwell Bay. One of the most beautiful sections of this walk is between the villages of Wye and Chilham, passing through the rolling hills and ancient woodlands of the Kent Downs – an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It’s fast and easy to get to from London, and with pubs at each end, it makes a fantastic day out – and the perfect escape from the city.

Stour Valley Walk
Me on the walk with my Poler Stuff The Rucksack (I took the pockets off to make the ideal day pack)

Travel time from London:
1 hour

Getting there and back: High speed Southeastern train from St. Pancras or Stratford International, changing at Ashford to Wye (you can also get slower trains to Ashford from Victoria and Charing Cross).
Return from Chilham changing at Ashford for London.

Walk distance:
7 miles

Difficulty:
Easy – with some gentle ascents/descents.

Pitstops:
The Tickled Trout at Wye, The White Horse and The Wool Pack at Chilham, Shelly’s of Chilham tearooms.

The Tickled Trout
The Tickled Trout at Wye

Directions:
From the station at Wye cross over the bridge towards the village. The Tickled Trout is immediately on your left, we stopped here for a pre-walk pint in their idyllic beer garden on the banks of the River Stour. They have an excellent selection of local ales and ciders, and home cooked food.

stour-valley-1
A pre-walk pint at The Tickled Trout

After The Tickled Trout carry on up Bridge Street through the village, then turn left onto Church Street. From the church follow the route signs for the North Downs Way and Stour Valley Walk, you’ll pass through some abandoned college buildings. Cross the road and go up the lane opposite, where you’ll come out into open farmland. Here the Stour Valley Walk and the North Downs Way separate, from this point you should follow the heron way-markers for the Stour Valley Walk. Follow the path to the left cutting diagonally across the field towards woodland.

Stour Valley Walk
Ian in the woodland

Once through the woodland the path dips into the valley and you’ll have stunning views of the surrounding countryside.

Stour Valley Walk
Ian taking a sip of whisky from his hip flask, whilst enjoying the views

The path continues through coppiced woodland to open meadowland and the village of Crundale, it then follows an unmade road branching off to the left across cornfields.

Stour Valley Walk
Me in the open meadowland

Stour Valley Walk
Ian crossing the cornfields with his trusty Fjällräven Rucksack No. 21 

Follow the way-markers through dense woodland, where the path is lined with yew trees. The path follows several sections of fields and woodland, and as you approach Chilham, you will see views of the castle. The path then branches to your left over a stile, this link path then takes you back down to the river to the picturesque Chilham Mill.

Stour Valley Walk
Made some friends in the fields between Crundale and Chilham

Stour Valley Walk
The path through woodland just before you branch off to the mill

It’s worth making a detour at this point to see Chilham Village Square before getting the train back from Chilham. Follow the lane from the mill to the A28 Ashford Road, take care crossing. Follow Bagham Lane opposite, bearing to the left and up the hill. You’ll pass The Wool Pack at the bottom of the hill. In the main square you’ll find timber-framed houses, St. Mary’s Church Chilham and the imposing gateway to Chilham Castle, as well as 14th century pub The White Horse and Shelly’s of Chilham tearooms.

For Chilham Railway Station from Mill Lane, turn right on the main road (A28 Ashford Road), and it’s in about 150 metres on your right.

Chilham Village Square
Timber-framed house and St. Mary’s Church

The White Horse Chilham
The White Horse in Chilham

 stour valley walk


Hiking Sgurr na Stri in Skye

Our last hike in Skye was Sgurr na Stri. Dwarfed by the surrounding Cuillin, Sgurr na Stri is only 494 metres high – a Marilyn rather than a Munro. Despite this, it is widely considered to be one of Britain’s finest viewpoints, and deservedly so.

You can hike in from Sligachan or Elgol, or get a boat from Elgol. We opted for the latter because we had to catch the sleeper train from Fort William that evening. We headed out on the early morning rib with Bella Jane Boat Trips.

Cuillin Ridge TraverseOur companions on the rib who jumped off the boat onto slippery rocks at Eilean Ramhair, and were heading up to do the notoriously difficult Cuillin Ridge Traverse.

stepping stones skye
Crossing the stepping stones by Loch Coruisk

Time was tight, so we followed the directions of our boat captain for the fastest route: “Head straight up from the loch, hook a right at the lochan.” We crossed the stepping-stones from Loch Coruisk and straight up to the peak, which is a bit of a scramble at times, and the path disappears pretty quickly once you leave the loch shore.

Sgurr na Stri
Hooking a right at the lochan

This route cuts the corner, but there is a longer, clearer path if you continue up from the lochan and join the path from Sligachan. This is more straightforward, except the final part to the summit which is rocky and requires careful route-finding whichever way you approach it. If you get the boat, whatever route you take, you’ll have to cross the stepping stones and you’re going to get wet feet if the water’s high.

sgurr na stri view
View from Sgurr na Stri, including the Cuillin Ridge, Loch Coruisk and the sea crossing

dee sgurr na sgtriMe, very excited to be at the peak!

seals from the rig
Seals and shags from the rib on the way back to Elgol

Kit List

Greenland_Trousers_81200-630_grandeFjällräven Greenland Trousers – These trousers were perfect for the boggy, wet conditions because they have a water repellent wax coating and are quick drying.  The durable G1000 fabric with double knee reinforcements made them hard wearing enough for scrambling over the rocks.  The pockets have room for a map, compass, knife and everything else we needed on the trail. There’s even a pocket for an axe!

 

WBS15_83806_NVYBPatagonia Torrentshell Jacket – This shell is super waterproof for the changeable Skye weather, but still breathable and has pit-zips for extra ventilation. It cuts out the wind, which we appreciated at the exposed peak. It packs down into its own pocket so it fitted easily into our packs when we didn’t need it. The fabric is ripstop, so again, it was good for scrambling over rocks.

 

BerglerLady-Chestnut-1Hanwag Bergler Hiking Boots – This Alpine mountain boot was great on the rocky terrain on Skye, which is the closest we have to Alpine in the UK, and often used for Alpine training. The flexible Vibram sole makes them comfortable to walk in and the leather lining and tongue prevented rubbing. Our feet stayed dry, even going through the high water on the stepping stones (well mine did, Ian’s would’ve done if he didn’t always have to go for a paddle!)

 

Ordnance Survey Explorer 411 Skye – Cuillin Hills Map

 Sgurr na Stri is a remote mountain, it’s important to have a map and compass and know how to use them.

 

 

 

Silva – Expedition 4 Compass

 

 

See also:

Getting to, and around Skye

Campsites and Pubs on Skye

 


Campsites and Pubs on Skye

Campsites

Wild camping is allowed in Scotland under the Outdoor Access Code, but there are also some fantastically located and wild-feeling campsites on Skye, so we spent part of the time in campsites and part wild camping.  The campsites we stayed in were Glenbrittle and Sligachan.

poler stuff tent
Our Poler Stuff tent standing up to strong winds in Glenbrittle

Glenbrittle Campsite feels like a hidden, secret place. You drive down a long winding road until you eventually reach a stunningly beautiful sandy bay, overlooked by the imposing Black Cuillin mountain range. There is an excellent campsite shop/cafe serving their own coffee brand – Cuillin Coffee Co. – and the best hot chocolate I have ever tasted. They also bake fresh bread and cakes daily and stock all the essentials too.

Glenbrittle Campsite
Our pitch overlooking the bay at Glenbrittle

Next to the historic Sligachan Hotel, in the heart of the Cuillin, Sligachan campsite is bleak and boggy and harsh and magnificent. When it all gets too much head over to Seumas Bar in the hotel and sup a local ale by the roaring fire.

sligachan-campsite
View of the Red Cuillin from our pitch at Sligachan Campsite

wild camp skye
View of Bla Bheinn (Blaven) from our wild camping spot on the last night in Skye

Pubs

Nothing beats a well earned pint after a hard day’s hiking and Skye doesn’t fail to deliver. Our favourites were the afore mentioned Seumas Bar and The Old Inn.

Seumas Bar is in the Sligachan Hotel, a few minutes walk from the Sligachan bunkhouse and campsite. It has friendly staff, live music, log fires, pub food and real ales, the majority of which are brewed on site at the Cuillin Brewery. And of course a great selection of Scottish whiskies.

The Old Inn is in Carbost, right on the shores of Loch Harport. It has a warm welcome, log fires, regular live music, homemade food and local ales. If you can’t stagger back to your tent you can always kip at their adjacent Waterfront Bunkhouse.

old inn skye
Live folk music at the Old Inn

See also:

Getting to, and around Skye

Hiking Sgurr na Stri in Skye

 


Getting to, and around Skye

London to Skye

We took the Caledonian Sleeper Train from Euston to Fort William. It’s a great way to maximise time off work, as it leaves both London and Fort William in the evening and arrives the next morning.

It’s also one of the most beautiful railway journeys in the world. Our lovely host (every carriage has a host to look after the passengers) woke us up in the morning with tea and Scottish shortbread, to stunning views over Loch Lomond. We wanted to jump off the train at every stop we passed.

View from Caledonian Sleeper

train window

Caledonian Sleeper
Views out the train window in the morning on the way there

On the return journey we ate dinner in the Lounge Car, and sipped Scottish ale and cider, whilst we watched deer grazing by the tracks and the sun setting across Rannoch Moor, against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

Rannoch MoorRannoch Moor from the Lounge car window

Fort William to Mallaig

Jamie from Fort William Car Hire met us from the train with our adventure mobile (a VW transporter that he’d converted himself to a camper van). It’s a brilliant service and he’ll meet you before you board the train back to collect your vehicle again, we can’t recommend him enough.

We took the spectacular Road to the Isles, which would be just over an hour’s drive, but there are several stop offs worth making.

First stop was Glenfinnan to see the Glenfinnan Monument and learn about Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobite Risings. You can also see the Glenfinnan Viaduct from here – made famous in the Harry Potter films.

The Glenfinnan MonumentThe Glenfinnan Monument

Then the Glenfinnan Station Museum with its restored 1950s Dining and Sleeping cars. You really can dine and sleep there – the Dining Car’s a restaurant and the Sleeping Car’s a bunkhouse.

The Glenfinnan Sleeping CarThe Glenfinnan Sleeping Car

We took a detour on the old road to Arisaig. You can bypass it but it’s well worth taking the extra time to go the scenic route.

Alternatively you can take the train from Fort William to Mallaig and then get the ferry. The Jacobite Steam Train runs on this route, which passes over the Glenfinnan Viaduct.

Glenfinnan-ViaductThe Glenfinnan Viaduct

Mallaig to Skye

At Mallaig we boarded the Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry to Skye. On the way back we drove over the bridge that connects Skye to the mainland as we didn’t want to risk any delays with the boat making us miss the sleeper back.

boat
View of Skye from the Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry

Getting around Skye

Driving around Skye was a pleasure, the roads are well maintained, everything is well signposted and there are lots of free car parks. Some of the roads are very narrow which can feel hairy, but there are plenty of passing places. The main problem is keeping your eyes on the road with all the amazing scenery to distract you. If you don’t have a car you can get around by bus.

Road to Sligachan
Driving into the Cuillin Hills

See also:

Campsites and Pubs on Skye

Hiking Sgurr na Stri in Skye

 

 


Over the Sea to Skye

After our visit to Glen Nevis in May last year, we’d been hankering after returning to the Highlands – be warned they are extremely addictive! This time we decided to head over the sea to Skye.

ferry-skye

May is the perfect time to visit the Highlands – the climate is temperate, the flowers are in bloom, and the hordes of midges (and tourists) have not yet descended.

cuillin from glenbrittle

I have so much to say about this mystical isle, I’ve split it into several posts:

Getting to, and around Skye

Campsites and Pubs on Skye

Hiking Sgurr na Stri in Skye

sguar-na-stri-ian
Ian on Sgurr na Sgri

 


William Exley’s New Comic Is Out!

Our in-house designer, William Exley‘s new comic ‘Golemchik‘ is out today and available from the Nobrow online store. You can also get the highly sought-after signed copies from Gosh Comics in Soho.

william exley gosh comics
Will signing Golemchik at the Gosh Comics launch, photo by Skye Kelly-Barrett of Skull & Heart

“Abandoned by his friends, one young boy goes searching for fun — and finds a golem on the hunt for the same. But as the two go about living out their dreams of having the best summer ever, the boy realises that golems don’t know how to take it easy. To save his town, he’ll have to get his new friend under control!”

Golemchick
Golemchik
By William Exley
Series 17×23
£6.50
ISBN 9781907704987

Dee Dee in Cooler Magazine

The lovely Suzie McCracken came to interview me for Cooler Magazine  for her feature about women who run outdoor businesses. Read it here, “Love the outdoors? Meet the women making adventure into wildly successful businesses“.

She took these photos of me in the shop too. Thanks Suzie!

Dee Dee in Cooler Magazine

Dee Dee in Cooler Magazine

Photos by Suzie McCracken


In-Store Waxing

Dee Dee waxing a customer's jacket We now have an in-store Fjällräven Waxing Station! We can wax Fjällräven G1000 jackets and bags while-you-wait on weekdays. We are not able to wax on weekends as it gets very busy, but you are welcome to drop off your item and collect it during the week.

Waxing is free-of-charge for items bought from us, simply show us your email receipt.

For items not bought at The Brokedown Palace there is a £30 charge for jackets and £20 for bags.

Waxing a whole jacket takes around 30minutes.

Please note waxing is not suitable for Kånken backpacks, except Kånken No. 2 (which is made from G1000 fabric).

 


We Have Expanded! Our New BIGGER Boxpark Store

We have moved into Boxpark’s flagship units formerly occupied by Nike! Come and see us at Units 37-41 right by Shoreditch High Street Station.

Brands stocked in-store include  Fjällräven, the Swedish brand known for their iconic Kanken backpack – which takes up an entire wall of the store in every conceivable colour. The American north west is represented by Pendleton, Poler Stuff and Filson. Ethical Californian outdoors brand Patagonia is a recent addition, and fits the concept perfectly.

Also stocked are Australian surf/motorbike brand Deus Ex Machina, Bellroy wallets also from Australia, Makia Clothing hailing from Helsinki, and Stance the cult sock brand from LA.

 


Kharma Design in the Guardian

The Khama Sewing and Knitting Centre where our chitenge shopping bags are made, was featured in the Guardian today: “Ethical fashion in Malawi – in pictures“.


Khama Design is an ethical fashion company working with local women in Kasungu, a town in Malawi. Pictured here in traditional Malawian Chitenge skirts, these women attend Khama’s training workshops in tailoring and fashion production.” Photographs by Mark Cocksedge.